Most tomatoes are susceptible to a fungal disease called early blight (Alternaria solani), which develops in early summer and causes leaves near the ground to develop dry, brown patches surrounded by concentric, black rings. Good genetic resistance is not available, although ‘Plum Dandy,’ a Roma type, offers noticeable tolerance. (Check our Seed and Plant Finder to find ‘Plum Dandy’ sources.) The best intervention is to prune off affected leaves as soon as you see them. Removing all leaves within 18 inches of the ground can reduce or delay outbreaks. Most tomato plants produce well despite losing leaves to early blight.
Hard black or brown patches on the blossom ends of ripening tomatoes indicate a physiological disorder called blossom-end rot, which is most common in large-fruited varieties. Prevent this problem by growing tomatoes in fertile soil generously enriched with compost, and mulch heavily to keep soil moisture levels as constant as possible.
Tomato hornworms (large, green caterpillars with white stripes) are the larvae of a large moth. Handpick them starting in early summer (follow the trail of pebbly caterpillar droppings to find them). In extremely bad years, control hornworms using Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) or spinosad, two widely available biological pesticides.
The devastating fungal disease called late blight (Phytophthora infestans) may strike following a prolonged period of cool rain. Affected leaves develop light brown, water-soaked patches, and entire plants can wilt within a few days. Provide excellent light penetration and air circulation to keep plants dry, reducing the risk of late blight. Reliable genetic resistance is not available, though a few varieties, such as ‘Juliet,’ have shown some tolerance. In climates where late blight is a problem every year, try growing tomatoes in high tunnels — the best way to keep the plants dry.
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